Full Guide for Moray and Maras in Peru
Last Updated on April 9, 2024 by Kelly
If you’re planning on visiting Peru, you should definitely spend a day exploring Moray and Maras! Both Moray (Inca circular ruins) and Maras (salt mines) are located close to Cusco. Each site offers an amazing opportunity to learn about local culture.
Moray is an ancient Inca agricultural site that consists of circular terraces carved into the ground. You’ll learn all about how the Inca cultivated a variety of crops with sophisticated experiments. The town of nearby Maras is home to the Salineras de Maras, which consists of thousands of salt ponds.
We visited both Moray and Maras during our 3-week trip to Peru. In this two-part guide, we’ll share with you everything you need to know to visit Moray and Maras!
How to Get to Moray
Moray is located about 30 miles to the northwest of Cusco, Peru. By car, it takes about 1.5 hours to travel there. Its altitude is over 11,000 feet above sea level.
If you’re traveling from Ollantaytambo, the drive is about an hour and 10 minutes.
When we visited Moray, we hired a private driver for the day. Our hotel arranged the car for us and made sure that we had a reputable driver. Our driver was kind and professional. He took us to both Moray and Maras, and he drove very safely.
There are also buses and colectivos (shared taxis) that travel to Moray. Because we recommend that you visit both Moray and Maras in the same day, however, we think it’s most convenient to have a private driver. We were traveling on a budget and it wasn’t too expensive to hire a driver.
About Moray
Moray is an agricultural complex that was built by the Inca for the purposes of cultivating crops. There are numerous Inca ruins at Moray, the most famous of which are the circular terraces. (The circular terraces are called muyus in the Quechua language.) Each of the muyus has 12 terraces. From the highest terrace to the lowest terrace there is a difference of 98 feet! The diameter of the largest inner circle is 600 feet.
The bottom 6 terraces of the largest muyu are pre-Inca. It’s believed that the Wari people created the original terraces. The remaining terraces were built by the Inca as an expansion.
The terraces were purposely built to achieve different levels of sun and wind, thus creating multiple micro climates in the same site. There can be a temperature difference of as much as 9 °F between the top and bottom terrace!
To visit Moray, purchase the Cusco Tourist Ticket (Boleto Turistico), which includes entrance to several tourist sites. There are several Tourist Ticket options, so confirm that you are purchasing the ticket that includes Moray. You can also buy a partial ticket to Moray at the entrance.
Why it was Built
The primary theory about the purpose of Moray was published by anthropologist John Earls. He suggested that the Inca used the circular terraces for agricultural experiments. Because of the varied terraces, the Inca were able to make adjustments for the level of sun, shade, and wind at each level and position. The Inca also brought soil samples from different regions to the terraces, providing further support for this theory. Earls proposed that Moray served as an agricultural research center, so that farmers could conduct experiments to identify prime growing conditions for maize, potatoes, and other crops. Evidence shows, though, that the dominant crop was definitely maize.
There are abundant competing theories for how the Inca used Moray. One theory proposes that it was a fertility site, given the position of the two large circular muyus and a large ridge between the two. Another theory states that the terraces could not have been used for agricultural experiments, because the water flow from the irrigation channels would have minimized differences in soil temperatures. Another theory was that it was used as mine pre-Inca, that was later converted to terraces for farming.
Our Experience at Moray
We saw a lot of terraces while we were in Peru (like at Machu Picchu and Pisac). Viewing them never really got old for me, though. When we arrived to Moray, the circular patterns completely blew me away. The amount of engineering that went into its construction was hard to fathom, especially considering they were created over 500 years ago.
Our guide led us down to the center of Moray, and we were able to explore the complex. From the top of the terraces, we were able to take photos with practically the whole complex in the background. Once we began walking in the center, however, it was a completely different perspective. I was struck by just how large Moray was as we traversed the terraces.
Our guide explained a lot of Moray’s history and the different theories in how it was used. Like many creations of the Inca, it still remains shrouded in mystery.
How to Get to Maras
The Salineras de Maras (salt flats) is only 10 miles from Moray. By car, it takes about 30 minutes to travel the distance. (The town of Maras is only about 15 minutes away from Moray.) The roads near the salt mines are dirt and poorly marked, so it’s helpful to visit as part of a tour or with an experienced driver.
From Cusco, the salt flats are about 31 miles away. From Ollantaytambo, the salt flats are 12 miles away. If you’re planning to head to Ollantaytambo (perhaps on your way to Machu Picchu), we think it makes a lot of sense to see Moray and Maras en route!
We’ve also seen guided hikes from Moray to Maras, so that’s an option too.
There’s a small fee to enter the salt flats. Please note that visitors are not permitted to walk through the salt ponds so as not to disrupt or compromise the salt production.
About the Salineras de Maras (Salt Mines)
On the hillside of Qaqawiñay Hill, you will see thousands of salt flats on display. Each pond has it’s own shade of white, beige, tan, and pink. There are over 4,500 salt ponds at Maras, and there’s evidence that they are over 500 years old! Because of its cultural importance, Salineras de Maras is currently on the tentative list for consideration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
No one knows exactly when the salt ponds were first created. There’s evidence that indigenous communities harvested salt there long before the Inca empire took over. Some estimates date the salt mines to 200 BC due to pieces of Chanapata ceramics that have been identified there.
According to Inca legend, the salt water that flows from the hill represents the tears of Ayar Cachi. Ayar Cachi was one of 4 siblings that originated the Inca empire. According to the creation story, Ayar Cachi threw a strone to form a ravine, and his siblings feared his strength. They locked him up in a cave so that he would not be the founder of the empire. As a result, his tears formed the salty streams that run down the mountain.
How They Were Created
Thousands of years ago, movement of tectonic plates pushed the seabed up to form the Andes mountains. The salt from that previous ocean was sealed within the mountains. The Salineras de Maras were formed from a saltwater stream (Qoripujio spring) that flowed underground. The indigenous people used that saltwater stream and diverted it to the salt pans.
The indigenous people used a communal process to cultivate the salt. They shared the labor of tilling the salt in a process called ayni in the Quechua language, which is a concept that involves mutual cooperation and reciprocity. The local workers today still use the concept of ayni as they cultivate salt.
Each salt pond belongs to one family, typically from the communities of Maras or Pichingoto. The company Marasal S.A. is in charge of the commercialization fo the salt, and then profits are divided among the families that own the individual ponds. The salt mining methods used at Maras are an excellent example of sustainable farming.
Salt Harvesting
Each salt pond at Maras has a border made from rocks and mud mortar. Salt water from the stream is then directed to each pond, filling it up to approximately 5 centimeters. When the water evaporates over several days, a fine layer of salt is left behind. The workers repeat this process over and over again. After this process is repeated several times (usually within 3-4 weeks), there is between 7 to 10 centimeters of salt at the bottom of each pond.
There are typically three layers of salt by the end of the process. The top layer is pink in color, and it’s the highest-quality salt. The pink Peruvian salt is typically used for gourmet cooking, and it’s pink in color due to the level of potassium and other minerals it contains. The layer beneath the pink layer is white, and is often called bulk salt. Bulk salt is often used for cooking purposes as well. The bottom layer is brown in color, and is typically used for agricultural purposes. Each salt flat can produce hundreds of pounds of salt per month!
Most of the salt production takes place during the dry season. During the rainy season, it’s more difficult to cultivate the pink and white salt. Instead, brown salt is harvested during the rainy season and used for agricultural purposes.
To extract the salt, workers will scrape each layer with a pick and then sift the salt through a strainer.
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Our Experience at Maras
Our driver first took us to a lookout across from the Salineras de Maras. We had an expansive view of all of the salt flats, and it really took my breath away. It was hard to imagine that each of those tiny ponds across the valley belonged to a family. It’s even more amazing to think that many of the workers are harvesting salt from the same plots that their grandparents worked on. (And their grandparents before them.) It’s hard to imagine 500 years of familial history in each of those salt ponds.
When we visited the salt ponds up close, we had an entirely new perspective. Each of them was carefully lined and in various stages of salt production. Our driver showed us all of the steps of the process.
When we were finished viewing the salt ponds, we headed to the market. There were tons of stalls with all sorts of salt products. I don’t think we bought anything because we were traveling light (and still had the Amazon rainforest ahead of us to explore), but in hindsight I wish we would have bought some of the pink salt. (Next time!)
Tours of Moray and Maras
When we visited Moray and Maras, we hired a private driver. (Our hotel front desk helped us to arrange it.) However, there are formal tours of Moray and Maras.
This tour will take you to both Moray and Maras as a day trip from Cusco. As another option, this tour also includes a stop at Chinchero in addition to Moray and Maras.
Nearby Hotels
There are multiple options for lodging near the sites of Moray and Maras. The closest hotel options are in Urubamba, which is less than 30 minutes’ drive away from the Salineras de Maras.
- Luxury | Tambo del Inka, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Valle Sagrado: This 5-star hotel has beautiful views of the mountains, its own spa, a gorgeous pool, and a restaurant. The spa also has a whirlpool with thermal circuit. This is where we would choose to stay if we could go back!
- Moderate | Taypikala Valle Sagrado Deluxe: This 3-star hotel has air-conditioned rooms, a bar, and a swimming pool.
- Budget | Hotel Amaru Valle – Urubamba: This hotel is located within walking distance of Urubamba’s main square.
Restaurants
If you’re hungry and looking for food, here are a few options in the town of Urubamba:
- Kaia Urubamba: This cafe offers a lot of dishes that are vegan or vegetarian.
- Tierra Cocina Artesanal: Serves traditional Peruvian dishes with local ingredients.
- Hawa Restaurant: This restaurant is only open for guests that stay in the Tambo del Inka hotel. If you happen to stay there, the restaurant features fresh and seasonal ingredients.
Attractions Near Moray and Maras in Peru
Chinchero
The town of Chinchero is located about halfway between Cusco and Maras. There are Inca ruins at Chinchero that were from the palace of the Emperor Túpac Yupanqui. In addition to seeing the Inca ruins, the town is also the center of weaving. At the Interpretation Center of Andean Textiles, you’ll be able to see live weaving demonstrations.
Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca)
This colorful mountain in Peru is located about 87 miles to the southeast of Cusco. The drive to Rainbow Mountain is several hours long, and then the hike up the mountain is about 3 hours long. Plan to make this a full day trip!
Humantay Lake
Humantay Lake is located about 94 miles west of Cusco. Travelers hike to Humantay Lake to see the bright colors of the water in this high-altitude lake. The hike is relatively short (2.6 miles roundtrip), but fairly steep (over 1,300 feet of elevation gain).
Tambomachay
About 15 minutes north of Sacsayhuamán are the ruins of Tambomachay. It’s known as the “Bath of the Inca.” The ruins contain aqueducts, canals, and waterfalls. The purpose of the site is unknown.
Ollantaytambo
The town of Ollantaytambo is located about an hour and a half to the northwest of Cusco. For those who seek to visit Machu Picchu, going to Ollantaytambo is a must because the train to Machu Picchu is stationed there. We recommend that you spend a day in Ollantaytambo to see the Inca ruins there. The Inca had a sophisticated military fortress that was meant to protect Inca nobility.
Summary
Moray and Maras are two sites of cultural importance in Peru that are easily visited as a day trip from Cusco or Ollantaytambo. We highly recommend that you set aside a day in your itinerary to see Moray and Maras!
Disclaimer: We always strive for content accuracy. Since the time of publishing, travel-related information regarding pricing, schedules, and hours may have changed. Please see individual websites embedded in this post for the most current trip-planning information.
